The true beauty of Petra comes from watching light and shadows cast during different times of the day, completely altering the colour and appearance of the majestic, ancient city. Flocks of tourists come by bus on day trips, so to avoid the crowds, take it slow or arrive just after sunrise or linger into the late afternoon. A two day pass is 55 JD ($110AUD), or is included on the Jordan Pass.

On Day 1, venture early through the winding canyon entry, known as the Siq, through to the rose-coloured Al Khazneh ‘Treasury’. Wind through the canyon's sites to the crumbling, ancient Royal Tombs where the Al Khubtha trail starts. This 1.5-2 hour round trip requires an uphill slog of hundreds of stairs, looping back around to capture a breathtaking view of the Treasury from above, where you can sip a tea or cold drink in the makeshift Bedouin 'lookout'.

On Day 2, let the heat of the day pass and hitch a ride (5-8JD) in the early afternoon to Little Petra. After wandering through the smaller (and completely free) version of the Lost City, return to the entrance where an unmarked trail winds to the left. Ignore the pleas of shopkeepers and guides suggesting 'the path is hard to find', and follow the spray-painted orange stones passed Bedouin tents, sweeping countryside and jaw-dropping cliff views. The trail is known as the 'backdoor' to Petra, eventually reaching the striking Al Deir Monastery after roughly four hours, which is completely empty by afternoon. A small checkpoint sits mid-way along the trail, where you will be required to show your ticket or the Jordan Pass.

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